The Great North Trail - August 2021

We did it. Today, we finished the job off with a relatively easy 50 mile spin to Cape Wrath. After yesterday’s epic, the result was never really in doubt, but it needed finishing.  The start was a repeat of last night's midge horror movie. My much derided hat/ net combo was literally a life saver as we took it in turns to pack up our wet gear. We had 20 easy road miles to tick off to get to Durness, along the coast road enjoyed by many on the NC500. It is truly a breathtaking coastline and our progress was slowed by the need to take in the views and take photos. Our whole trip has been a visual feast, from the rolling greens of Derbyshire and Yorkshire to the grey and purple of Scotland, the ever changing backdrop to this adventure has been a wonder.  This morning, we had hoped for a cafe along the way for breakfast. The only one was shut, which worked out well as we had to make it all the way to Durness, where we stopped at the Smoo Cave hotel to eat a monster fry-up. And we...

I’m not quite sure how we did that. I don’t think any of us do. We sat in the pub last night to go through our options, as it was clear our original plan was in tatters. We had hoped to get within striking distance of Durness today, giving us time to get the ferry to and from Cape Wrath and back to Durness for the bus to Inverness. In the last 2 days we had done just over 50 miles each day and finished the day completed ruined. We needed to do 86 today. That meant 12 hours in the saddle and the cumulative exhaustion from the last 9 days meant that was vanishingly unlikely. We looked at road options, we contemplated not going to Cape Wrath. In the end, we just decided to go for a gravel ride and see where we got to. And we did the 86 miles.  To give ourselves a chance, we were on the road before 8.30. The first 10 miles was easy, on roads, before we headed off up a farm track, tarmac eventually giving way to hard packed gravel. Perfect conditions for our bikes. We never gave muc...

When I planned this day of the route, my main concern was to make it longer. We had planned to stop in a B&B on the 9th night and had to book it well in advance before really understanding what each day held in store. In my head, this was an easy day: Short and limited climbing. So, when the sun nudged us awake past 7.00am, we were all looking forward to a less demanding day. Sure, there was a fat looking hill first thing, but nothing too scary thereafter.  Hang on a minute, I hear you say, I haven't logged in to read this nonsense to hear about fun, easy days riding, I want pain and suffering. I want to know who wins the midge wars. You can relax - this was another trip to the pain cave, dropping in on despair on the way through. This bloody adventure has gone well past anything any of the 3 of us has done on the bonkersness scale. It started beautifully with a giant 'full Scottish' at a cafe a mile down the road. Kate's front brake was a concern, well more than t...

I guess it won’t come as a big surprise that this thing isn’t getting any easier. Today was a relatively short day, mileage-wise, but there were many of the particularly Scottish challenges as well as the particularly Scottish treasures.  My vain attempts to wake my travelling companions with cups of tea meant we weren’t quick out of the blocks. When we did finally move, it was time for breakfast, only we were the breakfast. The damp, low cloud beside the Loch meant the little bastard midges were out in their billions. In the frenzied panic to load my bike, I almost left half my stuff behind, as clouds of the nibbling little sods closed in. One mile to the Carrour Station café, (The station is the highest one in the UK - remember the one in the film Trainspotting?) where we were to eat breakfast. If there is a nicer café and better breakfast with friendlier staff anywhere in the world, I’ve not been there yet. An absolute delight. From there we rode down through the Corrour esta...

Breakfast by the loch at a relaxed pace was a pleasure. The bike shop wouldn’t be open until 10.00 so, whilst this would come back to bite us later, an enforced slow start was bliss. A lovely sunny morning, lighting up the water and the rolling green and purple Trossachs made quite a backdrop. Kit packed, we set off back towards Callender for essentials, leaving Emma to get her seat post fixed. Coffee and muffin at Fat Jacks and when Emma joined us it was time to ride.  The first section from Callander to Strathyre and on to Killin was a breeze, along tarmac or packed gravel cycle track following the old railway line. The odd little climb and a few twists, but fast progress. Before Killin, the track tilts upwards, with a long, steady pull. Not steep and a good surface so we pushed on. If only we knew. Awesome descent into Killin and the popular Falls of Dochart. We had arranged with one of my dad’s old army pals, Tobin, who lived in Sterling, to meet us for lunch in Killin. T...

If you follow the Strava track of today's route you'll see it's a 'C' shaped curve to to East of Glasgow. The Great North Trail is mainly a combination of existing long distance routes. Today we joined up with An Turas Mor, the epic mainly off road route that goes from Glasgow to Cape Wrath. However, to get there, we had a few more miles of the canal to wrap up.  It seems churlish to complain about canal rides. Fast, flat, scenic. But this one had gone on, so when we joined after a substantial Scottish breakfast (Emma and I had the haggis and black pudding, throwing ourselves into the local culture) our hearts sank a bit, especially with a headwind and complaining legs. Nonetheless, the weather was good and getting better and the time passed quickly enough.  Even with a slightly tardy start, we were in Milngavie by lunchtime with just another 30 or so miles to do, and we'd done zero climbing so far. Milngavie will be familiar to those who have hiked the West...

Massive breakfast onboard, off we set on our new itinerary. We had lost so much time and distance yesterday that we decided to get back on track with some help from the train, so 20 plus miles to Galashiels, train to Edinburgh, then canal tow paths the 30 plus miles to Bonnybridge Eco camping. First though, a stop to buy anthisan. Whilst frigging around in Kielder, Kate and I had been savaged by midges. Despite the comfortable hotel bed, sleep had been elusive due to the incessant itching of 1000 bites. Miserable little bastards.  Quite a big hill out of Hawick, road at first then a gravel track. Just 3 miles in, though, disaster struck and Kate's dodgy wheel died again. Quick re-plan meant all of us (heartbreakingly) descending back into Hawick to the bike shop, with plan B being Kate in a taxi to catch the train in Galashiels. No truck at the bike shop in Hawick, so plan b it was. Would have been much better to ride as the 3 Musketeers, but with one in a taxi, it did mean the o...

We always knew that our plan had risks. The distances we had to cover on unforgiving terrain with so much kit would put us and the bikes under some stress. Sure enough, on day 4, we hit some bad luck. About 13 miles from the start, just into the flinty forest tracks of Kielder, Kate punctured her sidewall and the usual darts couldn't stop the leak. Off with the tyre to put a tube and boot in, but the wrong length valves for the flash deep rim carbon wheels. Back to tubeless and a patch to the sidewall. Just about holding and I was shaking the wheel to try to get the tubeless fluid to do it's stuff. Never shake a wheel, I now know. You can smash it up and down rock-strewn tracks all day, but shake it and it falls apart, cassette falling off and freehub body disintegrating. Facetiming Winnie confirmed we needed a bikeshop.  The nearest one was 20 miles away in Kielder. No taxis, buses or trains so it was assisted balance bike, walk or seek help. So we sought help. A man, busy wo...

At 5.00am we were woken by the noise of rain on the tents. Hmmn. However, it barely started before it stopped and a top cooked breakfast thanks to the lovely campsite owner and we were off again, back past the viaduct and further up onto the moor before plunging down and down, meeting a farmer blocking the road with his landrover, clearly looking for someone to chat to. In a short space of time we learnt much about the various ailments that afflict sheep and the benefits and hazards of maggots to treat them. He gleefully told us we were about to head up a monster hill and laughingly said we'd soon be walking. He obviously mistook the ladies for southern softies. There was no walking but it was steep. Coffee stop in Kirby Stephen and not long after that, we descended into Appleby-in-Westmorland where we planned to have lunch, leaving digestion time before the day's big climb.  As we approached the town, it was clear something was happening. The town centre was closed to traffic ...

Quick breakfast then de-camp and back to the trail. Nothing too horrible, but such slow progress and after a tough morning we had only covered 16 miles of the planned 73. Clearly, it was time for some flexibility as none of us fancied another epic day. Some route adjustments and a bit more road work and we gradually ticked the miles off.  A fabulous stretch of canal tow path took us all the way into Hebden Bridge, famous for a number of things including; being the birthplace of Ed Sheeran, being frequently flooded and having more lesbians per head of population than anywhere else in Britain. A very nice café too. Time for some Yorkshire, so we struck out towards Settle, with a mix of road and gravel and a glorious descent to lunch.  Then it was deep into the Yorkshire dales, working our way gradually upwards until finally the famous Ribblehead viaduct, as featured in the train ride to Hogwarts. The final 2 miles to Philpin Farm campsite was into a stern wind. but Kate turned...

Derby is some 16 miles south-east of the start of the Peak District section of the trail in Middleton Top, so, after a leisurely bit of shopping in Derby (Emma forgot a charging lead) we took the road to the start. A decent climb up on the road to the top of the moors, and we were on a perfect, flat gravel trail all the way to Parsley Hay, where we stopped for coffee and snack and to admire the views. It then all got a bit harder and the first signs that the phony war was over came as we struggled up from the Wye valley on an almost unrideable, steep and rocky path. Pretty much from then on, it was absolutely brutal, with climbs and descents equally difficult. Possible for an experienced and unencumbered mountain biker, but for fully laden gravlistas, albeit ones made of steel, this was hard, hard work, with a fair bit of pushing.  The weather was kind, the scenery spectacular and the company the best you could ask for. I was encouraged that Emma and Kate seemed to love my storie...

We all met up in Dulwich after work on Wednesday afternoon, our bikes fully loaded, to head for St Pancras and then to Derby. We were booked on 2 trains as each train can only take 2 bikes, so I waited for the second one. Slight panic when I realised I had firmly secured my bike on the wrong train and had just 2 minutes to find the right one. Kate and Emma, meanwhile, got chatty-man in their train. Early night.

3 mates from South London, members of Penge Cycle Club and relatively new to gravel riding, decided to spend our summer holiday cycling the 'Great North Trail' from Derby to Cape Wrath, self-supported. Kate Vergette, the female powerhouse and time triallist, Emma Porter, race machine. And James Hanscomb, the elder statesman of the group. Our plan was to cover the 800 mile mix of off-road and trail over 11 days of hard riding with a mix of wild and campsite camping and a bit of hotelling thrown in when we needed a treat. We were under no illusions that our plan was ambitious and may have needed to be flexible.