GNT - Day 11 - Loch Hope to Cape Wrath - 22/08/21

We did it. Today, we finished the job off with a relatively easy 50 mile spin to Cape Wrath. After yesterday’s epic, the result was never really in doubt, but it needed finishing. 

The start was a repeat of last night's midge horror movie. My much derided hat/ net combo was literally a life saver as we took it in turns to pack up our wet gear. We had 20 easy road miles to tick off to get to Durness, along the coast road enjoyed by many on the NC500. It is truly a breathtaking coastline and our progress was slowed by the need to take in the views and take photos. Our whole trip has been a visual feast, from the rolling greens of Derbyshire and Yorkshire to the grey and purple of Scotland, the ever changing backdrop to this adventure has been a wonder. 

This morning, we had hoped for a cafe along the way for breakfast. The only one was shut, which worked out well as we had to make it all the way to Durness, where we stopped at the Smoo Cave hotel to eat a monster fry-up. And we booked accommodation and dinner for tonight. And the bus leaves from the hotel for Inverness tomorrow. Wild camping is lovely, but Midge Wars 3 was not top of any of our wish lists. Fate was smiling on us. 

Breakfast done, time to get the little boat over to the Cape Wrath peninsular and the 11 miles to the lighthouse at the very north west tip of Scotland. It was a bit lumpy and the track was a bit rough but this was a cruise. Did I mention we’d left out luggage at the hotel? The road wound up and down across more empty landscape, bar the very occasional Scout camp, army building and a deserted looking house. Yet another entry for most remote house in the country competition. All of a sudden, there was no land in front of us, just sea, and around the corner, the lighthouse. 

Finishing an undertaking of this nature is a hard emotion to describe. This one was a slow burn; we knew last night we’d make it. It was still a shock. Relief, joy, elation. Deep, deep satisfaction at such an achievement. But also a tinge of regret. The adventure is coming to an end. At the lighthouse, there was a big group hug and plenty of selfies, followed by a large bucket of coffee served by a guy as big as a lighthouse. Then we needed to get a wriggle on to make sure we made the boat back to Durness. 

Now I’m in the bar. Chelsea are murdering Arsenal (don’t worry Gooners - some of the best teams lose to these guys) I have had a chance to reflect over a couple of beers. What’s it all been about? The challenge is a key part of it. If I have sounded like I’ve been moaning about how hard it’s been - know that the difficulty is a big part of the allure. I don’t think I have been effusive enough about the absolute beauty of the scenery we have ridden through. If there is one good thing that has come from this wretched covid disaster, it’s that we have rediscovered our own country. Sure, it had some faults, but it has some absolute gems. 

Here’s the thing though. All of these challenges are about people. We’ve met some fascinating people along the way. Delightful, and insanely helpful. (The guy who drove Kate from the middle of nowhere to the bike shop in Kielder for example) But this was mostly about just 3 people. The 3 amigos, the 3 musketeers; Emma, Kate, James. We have had low points and many highs. We've helped each other, pushed and pulled eachother. We haven't fallen out at all. Apparently, I have finally even done some work on the front. Just don’t tell David Watts - but maybe there’s life in the old dog yet. 

The last couple of days, I was James the red engine pulling along the naughty (and chatty) Annie and Clarabel. (Those without children see Thomas the Tank Engine) I prefer their actual names though. They don’t know this yet, but my actual sister, who I love as much as anyone in the world, is called Emma. Her second name is Kate. Could it be more appropriate that my virtual sisters are called Emma and Kate. Not to be continued….but what next?

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