GNT - Day 3 - Ribblehead to Haltwhistle - 14/8/21

At 5.00am we were woken by the noise of rain on the tents. Hmmn. However, it barely started before it stopped and a top cooked breakfast thanks to the lovely campsite owner and we were off again, back past the viaduct and further up onto the moor before plunging down and down, meeting a farmer blocking the road with his landrover, clearly looking for someone to chat to.

In a short space of time we learnt much about the various ailments that afflict sheep and the benefits and hazards of maggots to treat them. He gleefully told us we were about to head up a monster hill and laughingly said we'd soon be walking. He obviously mistook the ladies for southern softies. There was no walking but it was steep. Coffee stop in Kirby Stephen and not long after that, we descended into Appleby-in-Westmorland where we planned to have lunch, leaving digestion time before the day's big climb. 

As we approached the town, it was clear something was happening. The town centre was closed to traffic and there seemed to be many pony and trap combos. At the bridge in the town centre, a huge crowd was gathered, sat in the sunshine on the river banks, watching the extraordinary spectacle of dozens of horses being ridden bareback into the river. We had stumbled across the largest gathering of gypsies and travellers in Europe. 10,000 or more gather here annually for a week to party and to trot their steads up and down Flashing Lane. 

What was also apparent was that the girls dress up and the boys show off. It's a mating ritual and a real slice of colour. Highlight was a 14 year old attempting to sell us a chihuahua puppy called Dolly. Not sure she would have fitted in the saddle bag! 

Onwards to Great Dun Fell, the highest road in the Pennines and a proper climb. Tough enough on a lightweight road bike, but with all the luggage and plenty of tough miles in the legs, it was time to dig deep. It's a steady climb, about 5 miles long that never gets too steep and has some easier sections to give you some respite. The views from the top are spectacular, though we didn't hang around as the wind was quite strong and cold. 

Time for the hard bit, the descent. No sweeping tarmac for us to race down, but the most intense section of off road yet with plenty of sections completely unrideable. To keep us entertained, I decided to demonstrate the moving involuntary dismount. On the first occasion, my front wheel dug deep into the bog, tossing me over the bars and up to the waist in the same bog. I guess sympathy was not what I expected or wanted, as we all fell about laughing. Less amusing was the next topple, a few feet down a rocky stream bed. Concentrate!! 

 At last the path became easier and then became proper gravel, but by now we were all shattered and limped into Alston for refreshment. Just 12 miles to our destination and a much longed-for B&B in Haltwhistle. Quick wash and turnaround as we had a table booked for dinner. Charming young waiter who happily discussed his curly-topped perm with Kate and Emma. Rarely has food and beer tasted so good.

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